The
following and shortened description of Pamukkale
and Hierapolis is from the tourist guide written
by the Turkish archaeologist Ilhan Aksit.
Pamukkale:
This place, entirely
covered by travertine resembling a castle, to
which it owes its name (cotton castle), is at a
distance of 18 km to the east of Denizli. This
marvel of nature, which gives the impression of
heaped cotton, where history has left its marks,
reveals itself in this ancient village called
Hierapolis.
A road forks before
arriving in Denizli and leads us through greenery
directly to Pamukkale. The whiteness, which
appears to resemble clouds from afar, takes shape
as they are approached creating a fairy world of
whiteness.
One may climb the
ruins with greatest delight to the accompaniment
of the singing streams forming basins on both
sides of the climb. And when one turns and takes
a look behind, one sees a paradisecal beauty
deploying at ones feet. The play of colors during
the sunset at Pamukkale is a real phenomenon of
nature!
The Formation:
The Menderes valley
in the Aegean region is a long break. That is why
hot springs are encountered every now and then.
The spring waters contain limestone substances
and an abundance of carbon dioxide. These clear
waters at 35 degrees Celsius flow, spreading
calcium residues and emitting carbon dioxide. The
rocks on which they flow whiten as the waters
leave their residues behind. This white plain is
in the Curuksu Valley.
This river, which
was named Lycos in ancient times, passes through
the cotton plains and joins the Menderes river
delineating the western frontier of this plain.
At the southern confines rises the mountain
Babadag. To the southeast we see the mountain
Honoz of a height of 2751 m, which was called in
history "Mount Cadmos".
Pamukkale, where
roads coming from Tralles, and taking the
direction towards the Mediterranean sea, and
Sardes intersected, experienced a number of
earthquakes in history, which occurred during the
reigns of Neron, Antonius Pius, Alexander the
Great and Septimus Severus, and which destroyed
the city. These disasters of nature may have
changed the courses of the streams bringing along
carbon dioxide as a potential danger. For
instance, the "Djinn hole", under the
Temple of Apollo, is one of the places where one
can observe the existence of this effect. As a
matter of fact, the birds flying in fall dead. In
history the priests benefited from the clean air
available at certain places to penetrate,
accompanied by animals, and came out unaffected
with a triumphant air.
Pamukkale, caressed
by a breeze at all times, is today a center where
people come seeking a remedy for their ills. Even
emperors came here for the same purpose. These
waters are used in treatment of cardiovascular
disorders, atherosclerosis, blood pressure
anomalies, nervous disorders, skin eruptions,
diseases of the eye, rachitism, strokes, and
disorders of the digestive systems.
According to a
legend, a maiden, whose beauty was far from being
laudable, and unable to find a suitor, made up
her mind to put an end to her days and let
herself fall from the precipice. But the waters
in the basin took her in their lap safe and
sound. The miracle happened, the waters touching
her, rejuvenated and added beauty to her
complexion, which fact did not go unnoticed by
the son of the prince, who was passing by, and
who took her along to his father and married her.
This is not merely
legendary, since the said waters are truly
beneficial and have the property of rejuvenating
the human skin.
The spring waters of
Karahayit are at a distance of 5 km from
Pamukkale. The water in Karahayit comes from
three different streams, which don't have as high
a carbon dioxide content. The whiteness of the
water of Pamukkale yields their place here to
reddish hues. The radioactivity of the waters of
Karahayit of 60 degrees Celsius is about 2-4
eman.
The history:
Hierapolis, is
understood to have been founded by Eumenes II,
king of Pergamum. The city owes its name to the
wife of Telephos, legendary founder of Pergamum.
According to other sources the city owes the name
"Hiera" (which is believed to have
meant sacred city) because of the religious
events which took place here. An inscription,
which was the text of an edit about the city, and
which Eumenes had dictated in honor of his mother
has an interesting tale to tell.
The city was founded
around a subterranean cavern, where a religious
center developed beginning with the Hellenistic
age and became an important place. When Attalos,
king of Pergamum, yielded his territory to Rome
in 133 BC the city was subordinated to the Asian
province. According to Plinus it must have been
incorporated into the region under the domination
of Cibyra. The city was destroyed by earthquakes,
which occurred during the reigns of Tiberius in
17 AD and Neron in 69 AD. Hierapolis, which led a
peaceful life in the 2nd century, lived in
economic prosperity. The emperor Hadrian
affranchised the city from "aurum
coronarium" and recognized the right to take
refuge in there. The city lived through hard
times during the second half of the 2nd century
because of the plaque. It was restored under
Antoninus and Severius. The importance of the
city increased because of the Temple erected to
Saint Philippe, who was crucified here in 80 AD,
and the city became the seat of a metropolis. The
city continued to flourish during the Byzantine
Period. Constantine the Great made it the capital
of Phrygia. However, its decline started as of
the 12th century. Hierapolis became the site of
excavations for the first time in 1887 under the
administration of C. Humann, and then in 1957 by
an Italian committee headed by Prof. Paolo
Verzone. The excavations are still continuing.
The artifacts found are exhibited in the two
halls of a Roman pool used now as a museum. The
statues made under the influence of the School of
Sculpture of Aphrodisias are exhibited.
The city was built
on a platform at an altitude of 376 m from the
sea level, and was conceived within the scope of
a Hippodamos plan, of which illustrative examples
may be seen at Priene and Miletos. This platform
resting on blocks of limestone rocks measuring
1000 x 800 m and which rises to 70 m from the
plain, presents an exquisite beauty. The city is
rectangular and is divided by identical streets
into blocks of houses, which are also rectangular
in shape. Each street comprises to houses
measuring 29.60 by 70 m. The streets must have
been reserved for pedestrians as no trace of any
cart wheels have been encountered. All the
streets directed from north towards the south
crossed the city and the most important among
them was Plateia at a length of 13 m. It was
probably lined with a colonnade. The city was
destroyed by an earthquake in 60 AD, and was
partially rebuilt by Neron. The Temple of Apollo
and the Theater in the center of the city was
entirely restored. Two new quarters to the north
and the south of the city were also added; these,
joined with the axis of Plateia, established the
communications by means of two portals. We know
that the soffits of the north gate was flanked by
two towers. Those soffits were surmounted by an
architectural element with columns of which
nothing remains today.
Water came to
Hierapolis by two aqueducts along the slope of
the hills behind the city. These aqueducts, which
ran between Pamukkale and Karahayit towards the
east of the city, can be seen today. The water
system constructed on a hill to the east of town
converged at a tank, where brick drain pipes
transported the water into the city. Three pipes
conveyed the water to each dwelling as well.
There was also another drainage system, where the
waste water gathered; this was covered by large
rocks.
The graveyards were
located outside the city. These graveyards
contained tombs of travertine. The marble, which
was either of local origin or transported from
the surrounding region, was used only in the
fabrication of sarcophagi, of which there are a
good many specimens. The region to the northeast
and in the confines of the city must have been
the first burial ground. The limit of the region,
reserved to the deaths in the confines of the
city in 1st century, is comprised within the city
itself.
The funerary
monument dating from the times of Julius
Claudius, dedicated to an important person,
remained intact because of the respect due to
him. This monumental tomb, which is in the
necropolis of Hierapolis, resembling a sanctuary,
is a typical example of an edicule. Some had
columns in line on an elevated footing on which
rested the sarcophagus like the ones at Mylasa,
Iasos and Termessos. Only a few vestiges remain.
The inside of the tomb, which looked like the
interior of Heroon, consisted of a rectangular
chamber surrounded on four sides by seats, in
rows of seats, in the shape of a triclinius. The
entry into the tomb's section is through a
vestibule linked with a decorated structure with
engravings. The door has a panel fixed with
hinges. The family tombs are in general
surrounded by a small garden, while other tombs
have been added at a later date. To the east of
the region with the Hellenistic city stretching
out, dating from the times of Domitianus, is a
poormen's graveyard.
Tumuli like those in
Anatolia and Thrace can be found in Hierapolis.
These had been made heaping up earth on a
rectangular vaulted chamber. Inside the chamber
are three funeral couches. A dramos provides
entry to the chamber. The type of tomb with
edicule and fronton date rather from 1st century.
In 2nd and 3rd centuries the footings, on which
rested the sarcophagi, were made more conspicuous
with a view to transforming the dead into heroes.
The sarcophagus was for the one contained in it.
In the epitaphs the
biography of the deceased has been given no large
room in comparison with those of other sites. The
names and the relationship of the buried are
clearly inscribed, while poetical expressions are
very rare. Some among them also mention the
profession of the buried. In the northern
necropolis are sarcophagi bearing epitaphs of
round tumuli, and quadrangular tombs of stone
resembling houses. The number of tombs is above
one thousand. Tombs dating from Hellenistic and
Roman periods were sacked.
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