The
Christmas Holiday was a little sad being away
from our son and daughter-in-law and everything
we were used to, but the New Year we planned to
ring in with my youngest sister, Gugge, in Paris,
and that was something nice to look forward to!
Gugge and I had been sending emails back and
forth in planning when we would be arriving in
Paris, and since it was quite a long way to
drive, we figured it would take us four days to
get there. We planned to stay in the city for
three days and four nights, and then take four
days in returning to Almeria in Spain, where we
would start our journey from. Our friend Tom was
going with us, and since he had bought a car in
Spain, we would be using it. Car expenses would
be shared; that way it wouldn't be too expensive
for either one of us, and then we planned to
contribute towards wear and tear of Tom's car.
Everything was all
set for Tuesday morning December 26, and by 0925
the car was packed and we were leaving Almeria.
It was pouring rain while we loaded the car, but
once we had driven to the other side of the
mountains, that are north of the city, the sun
started peeking through the clouds, and the rest
of the day the weather was good. As we were
getting close to Granada, we started seeing high,
snow capped tops in the Sierra Nevada mountains,
and that was quite a surprise! Somehow I had not
associated Spain with cold weather and snow!
Farther down along the foot of the mountain, we
saw a castle sitting on top of a small knoll,
with a little village nestled at the bottom and
around the knoll. Something right out of a
picture book! Other sight like that we saw a few
more times, but unfortunately they were too far
away to capture on film!
As we left Almeria
and drove northwest towards Granada, the
landscape was very barren and dry; mostly rocks
and red dirt were everywhere. When we got farther
inland and away from the Sierra Nevada mountains,
the landscape started to change and become much
more fertil. Sometime we saw groves of tall
trees, that obviously had been planted. They were
some kind of Japanese trees, that grow faster
then ordinary pine trees, and also are better in
quality. The wood from these trees are used for
making furniture. Then there was the olive trees
of course! They grew everywhere it seemed; if it
was a small patch of dirt available, an olive
tree grew on it! Bigger fields with rows after
rows of olive trees grew along both sides of the
road we traveled on north of Granada, and
sometimes as far as we could see there were olive
trees. I was wondering how they harvest the
olives, once they become ripe; by machines or
humans? It didn't seem possible that machines
would work, as lots of the olive trees grew on
rather steep fields. Instead, it seems that on
the ground under the tree, a small rim is made up
of rocks and dirt, then the olive tree is beaten
with a long stick, until the ripe olives fall
down on the ground. From the ground the farm
workers pick them up. I can understand now why so
many people are imported from Africa for just
this kind of work, as lots of people are needed
for short periods of time. Besides, the wages for
the African labor force is cheap, compared to
hiring Spaniards! Very much like in the US with
our migrant farm workers!
Along E-5 up to Sta.
Elena the olive fields were plentiful, but there
the landscape changed. Now all we saw were flat
fields in all directions, but here they didn't
grow olives or anything. As it was winter even
here, it seemed the fields were resting for the
next growing season. Towards the late afternoon
we got closer and closer to Madrid, and the
traffic jams began! We didn't know much about
Madrid, except that it is a big city, and that
alone is not very interesting, so we opted to
take the highway around the city and start
looking for a hotel for the night. We didn't want
to travel once it got dark, in case we would miss
some gorgeous scenery! By 1730 we had found a
hotel along the road north of Madrid, and that's
where we spent the night. When Dan and Tom
checked into the hotel, they never asked if it
was all right to bring our dog, Duke, up to our
room, so we kind of smuggled him in anyway. Of
course he barked and growled at all the new
noices he heard, so all night I kept waking up to
quiet Duke down.
Wednesday, December
27, we were on the road by 0840 and it was not
quite light yet, but light enough for us to see!
Behind the hotel we noticed snow covered
mountains, and evidently we were pretty high up.
As we were going through a pass in the mountains
later on, we saw the first snowflakes, but they
didn't last very long. Our friend Tom, who has
spent the last seven years in Florida, hadn't
seen snow for many years, so he was quite excited
about it! The flat farming fields continued on
the other side of the mountains and up to Burgos,
where the wine seemed to take over. From then on
and way up into France, that was all we saw; wine
plants in various shapes, sizes and colors. Our
trip continued to Burgos in Spain, where we
followed the road towards Vitoria and to San
Sebastian along the Bay of Biscay. As we drove
through steep valleys leading to San Sebastian,
the houses looked different then in the rest of
Spain. Now they took on a much more German or
Tyrolean character, where they clung to the steep
mountain sides. It seems San Sebastian has a deep
ocean port, as big ships lay tied up along the
pier. We couldn't see any small boats or
sailboats from the road, where we were
travelling! Closer and closer to the border
between Spain and France we drove, and we
followed signs that said "Francia".
Even so we weren't sure if we were in Spain or
France, when we stopped for lunch in the
afternoon! The waitress informed us that we were
still in Spain, but across the river lay France!
When we had finished our lunch, we set off again,
around one of the numerous "circles"
they are so fond of in Europe. Does the traffic
flow better with these circles than with traffic
lights? Anyway, after a couple of turns around
this particular circle we drove, before we
decided that the road we took led towards France.
The road signs are not very good either, but it
seemed after awhile that we hade chosen the right
road, and we were now in France. Because of the
European Union, the borders between member
countries are now completely opened up, so we
weren't stopped to have our passports checked!
Along the road towards Biarritz in France we
drove, but then the road started to curve more
inland again and we followed it towards Bordeaux.
Before we reached Bordeaux, we decided to drive
smaller roads northeast up to Langon, where we
hoped to find the "Canal du Midi". We
wanted to see what it looked like, and if it was
wide and deep enough to accomodate our boats? As
it had gotten dark by the time we reached Langon,
we just checked into a hotel, where Duke was
welcome to stay with us in our room.
Thursday, December
28, we were ready to leave the hotel at 0835, but
before we could drive off in the car, we had to
scrape frost from the windows. We didn't have a
scraper, as Tom's car was not outfitted with such
tools, but our Shell gas credit cards worked
wonders and soon all the windows were clean. The
heater in Tom's car worked pretty good, but to
begin with we all froze, until the engine had
warmed up and passed the heat along to the inside
also! Soon we found the Garonne river and crossed
over to the other side, but as it was still
pretty early, the fog covered the land and we
didn't see much. Even so we found the river and
the "Canal du Midi", which are one and
the same from Langon out to Bordeaux. A few canal
boats lay tied up to the docks along the river in
Cadillac, where we stopped to have a look! The
river/canal looked wide and deep enough for our
boat right there, but we would definitely have
trouble with our height. Even after our mast is
lowered, the arch, with all the antennas on it,
is too high to fit under most of the stationary
bridges. The highest spot on our boat could not
exceed 3 meters, which is about 9.8 feet! Dan has
measured the height of our arch, and it is about
12 feet from the waterline, so we have come to
the conclusion that the French canal system is
not for us!
Part of the town of
Cadillac is surrounded by a high and old wall,
with portals here and there in the wall, and it
sure looked mediaeval to us! A nice place to stop
and take some pictures! The streets were very
narrow inside the wall, and houses were built
together. In the middle was the town square, and
farther up the castle sat with another wall
around it, to keep the ordinary people out, I
suppose! From Cadillac we drove along a scenic
route farther up into the wine country and turned
around at the small town of
Sauveterre-de-Guyenne. It seemed everywhere we
looked, we saw signs that pointed to
"chateau" this or that. After awhile we
realized that "chateau" is a
designation for the wine label; it does not
necessarily mean it is a beautiful castle or huge
mansion! Of course there were plenty of those
also, as France seems to be filled with famous
chateaus! By mid day we were in Bordeaux! It sure
was an old and very impressive looking city, the
little we saw of it, as we crossed the big bridge
twice trying to find our way north. We followed
along the Gironde Bay to the small town of Bourg,
where we stopped to sample some authentic French
food. The town was very quiet and not many people
were about, so we had to walk downhill quite a
long way, before we found a restaurant that was
open! It was worth it, as the food we ate was
deliscious and the service great. Maybe that was
because we were the only guests after awhile! The
lunch menu was made up of specials and that was
what we tried; the appetizer consisted of lobster
pate', the main meal of salmon and white fish
grilled on sticks, and served with rice and
attractively arranged zucchini and carrots.
French bread accompanied the meal, as well as a
local bottle of wine. For dessert we enjoyed the
most scrumptious chocolate cake with strawberry
cream between the layers and chocolate frosting
covering everything! Two hundred eighty francs
the entire meal cost, including tips, and we
estimated that to be about $40.00! Not bad for
such a wonderful meal! Soon after we left Bourg,
we headed north towards the city of Saintes, and
there we got onto a toll road that brought us
farther north to the city of Poitiers. Seeing we
were getting pretty close to Paris by then, we
decided not to go any farther, but stop and get a
hotel for the night instead.
Friday, December 29,
was the day we would arrive in Paris, but before
that could happen, we needed a better map of the
myriad highways leading into and around the city.
We were approaching Paris by way of Rambouillet
and Versailles, and before we knew it, we were
caught up in thick traffic from every direction
heading for the city. Dan was driving by then,
and I must say that he kept his cool, even though
we had no clue as to where we were going! When we
saw a sign that said "center" we took
it, and immediately the traffic seemed to thin
out. Soon we were travelling along the Seine
river heading for the heart of Paris, and that
was just as well. Maybe from there we would find
our way to northern Paris and Montmartre quarters
in particular, where my sister lived! We sort of
stumbled along, drove back and forth plenty of
times on one way streets, but by 1400 we had
found our way up to Montmartre and were parked
illegally along a narrow street. We looked at a
map over a local bus route, and got some
information from a Spanish lady who was very
helpful, so soon we set out again to find the
particular street my sister lived on! Once more
we drove around in circles, but when we finally
found a parking place along one street, Dan
pulled into it. He and Duke stayed with the car,
while Tom and I went to look for a phone booth to
call my sister! Like Sweden, there are no coin
operated phone booths longer in France, and since
we didn't have a phone card and we couldn't use
our credit card, we were stuck! Now what? Luck
was on our side, because when I looked up to the
next street and saw the name, it sure looked like
the name for my sister's street! Tom and I set
off to find out for sure, and it was! Soon we
stood in front of the portals to number 21, and
another hurdle became obvious. In order to open
the door you needed a code, which I didn't have!
The building was five stories tall, and I didn't
know on which floor my sister lived, so shouting
was out of the question. When a young lady came
to visit a friend in the same building, and she
had the code to get in, I started babbling
something about my sister, and could she please
let us in also? Finally we stood inside, and all
we had to do now was to locate Gugge's name and
ring her buzzer, so she could buzz open the
inside door! What a relief it was to hear Gugge
say "allo", before we both reverted to
Swedish. Only four long circling stairs separated
me from my sister, but after a lot of huffing and
puffing we could finally hug each other, and I
felt we had arrived in Paris.
Gugge returned with
us to get Dan, Duke and the car, and soon we had
found a parking place on Gugge's street. Since it
was Friday afternoon, we had to pay for a parking
ticket that would be good until 1800. From then
on and all through Saturday, Sunday, and since
Monday was a Holiday, the parking was free. To
wind down after the harrowing experience in
finding my baby sister, we all went to a cafe'
for some strong French coffee. The car was soon
unloaded, and we walked with Dan and Tom to a
nearby hotel, where they were going to stay,
while Duke and I were going to stay with my
sister. Her apartment is very small and could
only accomodate another person and a dog for
overnight stays! As soon as the guys had checked
in and gotten settled, we all went over to
Gugge's apartment for some aperitifs, before
getting ready to go to a Chinese restaurant to
eat dinner. Later on, after Dan and Tom had gone
to their hotel, Gugge and I started catching up,
and into the wee hours of Saturday Swedish was
spoken!
Saturday, December
30, was a day to do grocery shopping for our New
Years Eve dinner, so that is what we did to begin
with. Once that was accomplished, we set out do
some sightseeing! As we would be using the Metro
to get around the city, Gugge thought it would be
a good idea if we bought a block of subway
tickets. That is what we did, so from then on we
could just stick our ticket into the machine, and
once it was stamped, we could go through the
turnstile. The Metro system in Paris is quite
nice and clean, and easy to follow, and even Duke
soon became used to getting on and off the
trains. This afternoon we headed downtown to have
a look where Gugge works. She works for United
Airlines in an office along with quite a few
other airlines, which is called "The Star
Alliance"! After meeting some of her
coworkers, we walked to the next subway entrance.
Our walk brought us by the newly renovated Opera,
with its gilt statues gleaming in the sun! The
subway soon brought us over to the river Seine,
where we planned to take a cruise on the river in
a canal boat, but before that could happen we
needed some nurishment. We found seating upstairs
in a very busy restaurant and ordered our food.
The food arrived soon and it was good, but when
we wanted to pay, we couldn't get anybodys
attention. Seemed only the head waiter could
prepare the bill, and he was busy having a temper
tantrum. He was throwing food around in a small
room, slamming dirty dishes down hard on the
counter or on top of other dirty dishes, and
swearing and screaming. Actually, it was quite
comical, and obviously the gentleman was very
stressed out! We never got his attention, so we
ended up paying downstairs on our way out! By
that time Dan hade taken Duke out, and they were
sitting outside along the sidewalk. Dan had my
backpack, with our cameras in it, with him, which
he had placed on the chair next to him. When we
were ready and called to him, he walked off and
left the backpack on the chair! Luckily we
noticed it almost right away, so Dan walked back
to get it, and the backpack was still sitting on
the same chair. We were very lucky! Across the
Seine we walked to buy tickets for a canal boat
ride, and we were just in time for the next
cruise. Since I wanted to film and take pictures,
I wanted to sit on top of the boat. It was
freezing cold in the wind, but Dan, Duke and I
braved it the entire cruise, which took about one
hour. Tom and Gugge disappeared downstair after
awhile to warm up! The current was very swift in
the river, but the canal boats are made to handle
it, and soon we had turned around and headed with
the current. "The Louvre" was the first
building on our right. It seemed to stretch along
the river forever, and over the years it has
become the largest museum in the world. Under
"The Royal Bridge", or "Sun King
Louis XIV Bridge", we soon went, and it
looked newly renovated also, as the statues on
top glimmered of gold. Paris has 34 bridges
across the river Seine, but we only went under
seventeen! The river tour continued up to
"The Eiffel Tower", where it turned
around and headed upriver again. What can I say
about the Eiffel Tower more than it is huge and
very impressive up close! The last famous
building we saw, was "Notre-Dame". I
almost expected the Hunchback to come swinging
out of the belltower as we went by! By the time
the canal boat docked, we were so cold and
couldn't stop shaking. Maybe a walk over to see
Notre-Dame up close would warm us up? Guess it
did some, but no way were we going to be able to
go inside the church. Long lines wound their way
out from the church, so we just went close to it
and that was enough! Shivering, we made our way
to the Metro and back to Gugge's apartment, to
absorb everything we had seen during our tour,
and to rest up for the evening!
At 2100 we had
reservations in a local French restaurant to eat
dinner, and we expected Gugge's friend, Enzo, a
Swedish speaking Italian, to join us. Enzo was
very nice and friendly, and he spoke Swedish real
good with a cute accent! As soon as Enzo arrived,
we walked over to the restaurant; even Duke was
allowed to come! The food and the wine were
superb! We even got to meet the young chef, so we
could compliment him on the deliscious food.
After we closed the restaurant, we continued to a
bar, where Enzo hangs out, and where he knew a
lot of people. The guys played pool, and Gugge
and I watched. I was talking with a young man
from France for awhile, but when he started
trashing the American people and the American way
of life, I got real angry and told him, that what
he had heard was just not true. He had never set
foot in the US, but had gotten his information
from a friend, who had visited the United States,
so he based his opinions on hearsay! The evening
still ended pleasant, and at 0200, when the bar
closed, we left. Dan and Tom disappeared to their
hotel, Enzo to his apartment, and Gugge, Duke and
I to hers. We still had more to talk about, so we
stayed awake until 0400, when I couldn't keep my
eyes open any longer.
Sunday and New Years
Eve, December 31, last day of year 2000 and our
son's 30th birthday. Once again I was reminded
that something important was going to happen
without me, but a phone call back home to Rhode
Island was better than nothing at all. Everybody
was a little sluggish after our late night of
eating and drinking, but when Dan and Tom finally
showed up at Gugge's apartment, we all headed for
The Eiffel Tower. We were hoping to go up to the
top for a gorgeous view of Paris. Seemed every
other tourist thought the same, as there were
enormously long lines both for the elevator and
the stairs! Actually, we didn't know you could
walk up, but even if there had been no lines, I
believe, I would have had a hard time to convince
Dan to climb the stairs to the top! The tower is
more than 1000 feet high and weigh about 6,400
tons. Fifteen thousand metal sections are held
together by 2,500,000 rivets, and every seven
years the tower is repainted, using 45 tons of
paint! The Eiffel tower has three floors with
shops and restaurants, which we never got to see!
We had to be satisfied by walking under the tower
and marvel at its enormity, before walking back
to the subway station to find some heat and a
bathroom for Dan. What Dan remembers most of
Paris is the awful bathroom he had to visit in
the subway station! In order to use the small
cubicle that contained the toilet, he had to pay
and get a ticket. Then, before he dared to sit on
the rim, he had to line it with toilet paper, as
it was gross from people throwing up all over it.
Finally he could do his business, all while
hearing other people gagging and coughing from
the stench. No wonder he looked a bit green when
he emerged!
Soon we were on the
Metro line that would take us to "Arc de
Triomphe", and the stop brought us up next
to Avenue Des Champs Elysees. It was lots of
people around the Arch and along the Avenue, but
we made our way under the wide street that
circles the Arch and came up in the center. The
Arch is decorated with many smaller statues, and
a grave for "The Unknown Soldier" is
located in the middle. We were shivering in the
wind and the cold, so soon we walked back under
the street and followed Champs Elysees all the
way down to where the Obelisque is situated. A
huge Parisian wheel was lit up as it turned, and
that view was a fitting ending of our sightseeing
that day!
How nice it was to
get back to Gugge's apartment to thaw out and to
warm up with some more aperitifs before our
dinner. Most of the food we had chosen was
already prepared, like goose liver pate', smoked
salmon, Swedish herring, and different kinds of
French cheese with bread. The only food we had to
cook was mushroom filled tortellini and sauce
with mushrooms, and that was just about the only
food Dan liked. I believe Duke ended up with most
of the goose liver pate'! After we had eaten our
dinner, we got ready to walk up to Sacre Coeur,
where we planned to watch the Eiffel tower, as it
changed the color of its lights for the new year.
From being freezing cold earlier in the day, it
had warmed up and started raining instead by the
evening. As soon as we stepped outdoors, we
became soaking wet, even though we were using
umbrellas. Duke was of course like a sponge and
sucked up the water from above and from below!
Along narrow streets we walked and climbed
numerous steps, before we finally came up to the
artist's quarters around Sacre Coeur. We were not
the only people who had the idea of watching the
Eiffel tower from the hill; hundreds of people
were already there and more streamed in all the
time. Duke was getting nervous with so many legs
and feet for his view, so Dan and he started
their climb back down to Gugge's apartment before
us. Tom, Gugge and I stood in the pouring rain
amongst screaming and shouting revellers, and not
a glimpse of the Eiffel tower did I see, just the
back of other people's head. Well, the new year
arrived anyway! Soon we also made our way back to
Gugge's apartment, and Duke needed to be dried
off, before he was allowed to enter. Maybe ice
cream for dessert wasn't such a good idea, since
we were all wet and cold, but it sure tasted good
and was soon gone! More drinks to toast in the
new year with, but by 0300 I couldn't stay awake
any longer, so I left Gugge discussing life with
Dan and Tom!
We all got a very
late start this first day of the new year, but it
didn't matter as we had seen most of the sights
of Paris we wanted to, and this day we were just
going to take it easy! After calls home to our
parents, brothers and sister in Sweden to wish
them a happy new year, we got together with Dan
and Tom and left for a small corner restaurant to
get some lunch. It was still raining outside, so
the streets were wet and it was not very nice!
The restaurant was a bit crowded, but we managed
to get a small table inside the door and close to
the bar. In France, as well as in Spain, you are
allowed to smoke anywhere in a restaurant! In
France the restaurant owners are not allowed to
put ashtrays on the bar where people stand to
drink a cup of coffee, a beer, a glass of wine or
a drink, so everybody throw their cigarette butts
on the floor. Does that make sense? In France
they also have three different prices for a cup
of coffee, depending on where you are standing or
sitting. The least expensive price is charged
when you stand at the bar; the next price level
is charged when they have to bring your cup to a
table inside the establishment, and the most
expensive price is when they have to bring your
cup of coffee outdoors to the street! Heavens
forbid if you should buy a cup of coffee at the
bar and then carry it yourself either to a table
inside or outside; you will definitely get
hollered at! Well, our food soon arrived, and I
had ordered a hot dog! What a hot dog; it was at
least 10 inches long and fat, and it looked more
like a sausage, but it was good and I ate the
whole thing, as they don't give doggy bags either
in France!
After the lunch we
all needed to settle our food, so a walk up to
Sacre Coeur would do us good. It was still
drizzling, but that didn't stop the artists from
displaying their paintings in the square next to
the cathedral. Lots of people were milling around
in the square and spilling over into the church.
We wanted to have a look inside Sacre Coeur, so
Tom, Gugge and I pushed our way in amongst all
the other people, that wanted to do the same. Dan
and Duke waited outside, as no dogs were allowed
in the cathedral! As soon as we had squeezed
through the big portals, the walkway opened up
wide and we were inside the big church. Almost
immediately the most heavenly sound reached our
ears! Up in the sacristy there were lots of nuns
in white robes, and they were singing. With the
great acoustics inside the cathedral, the nuns
singing sounded very soothing and relaxing! The
thousands of small candles lit everywhere, also
helped in creating the soothing and relaxing
atmosphere. Just what we needed on this first day
of the new year! After enjoying the sights and
sounds for a few minutes, we walked all around
the cathedral. From this walkway around the
sacristy, we could see other rooms off to the
outside walls. Some rooms were small chapels,
others seemed to be memorial rooms, rooms for
historical purpose and information, and of course
the souvenir room. Soon we arrived outside in the
grey dusk, that were settling over Sacre Coeur
and the city, and found Dan and Duke. It had
stopped raining finally, but since it was getting
dark, it was time to go back to Gugge's apartment
and prepare for our departure the next morning.
Tuesday, January 2,
2001 was a work day for my sister, and we had to
start our journey back to our boats in Spain. By
0830 our belongings were stowed in Tom's car, we
hugged my sister and waived goodbye to her, as
she disappeared around the corner and headed for
the subway and her job. We had gotten pretty good
directions from Gugge on how to get onto the
Perifernick, the beltway that encircles the city,
and the road that we wanted to take. Just a
couple of turns and we were heading towards the
Perifernick on the north side of Paris. We passed
the entrance the first time, but after turning
around and going slow, we finally ended up on the
beltway and headed into the rising sun. Once we
were on the Perifernick, all we had to do was
keep a lookout for a sign that said "Orly
Airport", as we wanted to take the exit off
the beltway and head south towards the airport.
It sure was much easier getting out of the city
than into it, and soon we had left Paris behind
and drove south on the toll road. We were driving
towards Lyon on the motorway, and it was very
boring as all we saw was the road and mostly high
banks on either sides. Once in awhile we glimpsed
some nice views, but that was not often! It got
better when we left the motorway, shortly after
we passed through the city of Lyon, where we took
a smaller road that wound up and down along the
river Rhone. There along the river, we saw the
mountain sides divided into terraces, and on
those terraces, on every spot imaginable, the
grape vines grew. As this was winter time, the
wine growers were trimming their vines and
preparing them for the next growing season. Quite
often the branches, that got trimmed off the
vines, were burned in the fields, and that helped
in putting a haze over the surrounding
countryside! Towards evening we started to get
hungry, and when we saw a MacDonald sign, we
followed the directions to its arches! Somewhat
of a confusion developed when I was ordering our
food. I don't know how, but I ended up with two
Happy Meals for kids and two orders of Big Macs
with french fries and cokes; no chocolate shakes
to be had! Anyway, we ate what we could and the
rest was saved for Duke! By now it had gotten
dark, so we started looking for a hotel for the
night. When we found one along the road in
Montelimar, France, we stopped for the night. The
car engine was killed for the day, and that was
when we noticed smoke coming from under the hood.
Dan and Tom investigated the smoke at once, and
found it to be steam; the engine was overheated
from lack of water!
The following
morning Dan and Tom added water to the radiator,
and that seemed to fix the overheating problem.
After we had eaten breakfast in the hotel, we
paid our bill, loaded our luggage into the car,
and were on the road again by 0930. Along the
river Rhone we drove until the road split; to the
left the road continued to Marseille eventually,
and to the right towards Montpellier. We took the
right fork! By now we could feel the change in
the climate, as it was getting warmer the farther
south we drove. Since we hadn't seen the
Mediterranean for some days now, we opted to
drive down along the coast south of Montpellier.
When we arrived in the port at Sete, we decided
that it was time to have a break, eat some lunch,
and just stretch our legs. Tom and I enjoyed a
fish soup as appetizer and our main meal
consisted of local seafood, which we couldn't
figure out what it was. The food was eaten with
French mustard and it was quite good. Dan was
very disappointed in his steak, which was thin,
over cooked and tough as a leather sole! Our
visit to Sete didn't last long, and soon we were
driving again. We continued along the
Mediterranean until we reached Perpignan, where
we decided that we needed to see some more
mountains. From Perpignan the road started
climbing towards the Pyrenees the farther away
from the coast we drove. Since it already was
getting dark in the valleys we drove through, we
decided to look for a hotel in the small town of
Prades, France. Almost every night in the hotel
rooms we took into, we luxuriated in a tub full
of hot water. How nice it felt to be able to just
lay there and let the hot water relax you. Quite
a difference compared to the quick showers we
take onboard our boat!
On Thursday morning
we sampled the last of the French food; coffee,
juice, and bread with marmelade. Soon we had
packed up our belongings, and as soon as we came
outside the hotel, we could see both high and
higher mountains all around the town. What a
secluded spot! The road twisted and turned along
the steep mountain sides as we continued our
journey, and hairpin curves we manoeuvred, as we
constantly climbed higher up. Here and there on
either side of the road or below it, a small
village seemed to cling to the side of the
mountain. All the houses were built of stone with
cement as the finishing layer, so they all had
the same dreary grey collor. What the houses
lacked, the beautiful views made up for!
Electrical lines threaded their way along the
river at the bottom of the valleys, and the power
from the water was harnessed here and there to
drive turbines that supplied the electricity.
Some waterfalls had been contained and redirected
into pipes that brought the water to the hydro
electric station hundreds of feet below! As we
were getting higher up into the Pyrenees
mountains, we started to see snow on the ground
along the road, and now and then it was snowing.
The real thick snow on the side of the road and
on the road itself, we encountered after we had
driven through the town of Bourg-Madame in France
and crossed into Spain. We had chosen the scenic
route into Spain, which meant that we had to
cross a pass at 5900 feet, instead of the faster
route through a tunnel. Once we had conquered the
pass and seen snow covered tops, void from any
vegetation, all around us, it was down hill from
then on until we got close to Barcelona. Not many
areas in Spain are flat, not even close to the
Mediterranean; hills and mountains in various
height are the common sight! Barcelona we
bypassed and drove instead out to the
Mediterranean and stopped in Villanueva y Geltru,
where we ate supper. Villanueva has a big harbor
where lots of local and some transient boats lay
tied up. The city was very quiet, but you could
tell it would be very busy in the summer time
with tourists, sun lovers and yachtsmen. Back on
the road south again, after our short visit to
Villanueva, and we continued driving until we
found a hotel along the motorway, that could
accomodate us and Duke. That would be our last
night in a hotel room, so a last hot, relaxing
bath was definitely on the agenda!
Friday, January 5,
we got up and got going as soon as we could. It
was going to be our last day on the road, and I
think we all were a bit anxious to get back to
Almeria and check our boats. After we had checked
out from the hotel in Burriana, we got back on
the highway again and followed the toll road all
the way to Valencia, where we veered away from
the coast. At once the terrain became much more
interesting to watch! Hills and mountains we saw
all around us, dried up river beds, groves of
orange and lemon trees, and the plastic covered
green houses. Both the oranges and the lemons
were not quite ripe yet, but the trees seemed
loaded with the bright colored fruits, so it
wouldn't be too much longer until we could buy
them at the Farmer's Market in Almeria! Here in
Spain they utilize plastic as cover on top of and
on the sides of green houses. In some areas that
is all you can see; either white or green plastic
for miles and miles. People say that all the
fruit and vegetables for all of Europe come from
Spain, and I am starting to believe it! Even
United States are supplied with tomatoes and
green peppers from here!
All morning and into
the afternoon we continued driving south, and by
1500 the scenery started to look familiar. We had
arrived back in Almeria again after being gone
for eleven days. It felt good to be back in our
city, which we had been calling home since
December first! The car was soon unloaded, and we
carried all our stuff out to the boats, but
before we got to them, we were met by Rene and
Wendy. They are a young couple from Holland, and
they had been watching our boats while we were
gone! So good to see them also and to top it off,
we got invited for Dutch pancakes for supper
later on! Sounded yummy to us, so of course we
didn't say no! Our boats had fared well in our
absence; only one line from the stern of our boat
to the dock had broken, and Rene had retied it
with one of his lines! Soon it was time to go
over to Rene and Wendy's boat, "Mrs.
Jones" and eat Dutch pancakes. I had never
heard of Dutch pancakes before, so this would be
a first! The pancakes are cooked in a skillet on
top of the stove. Before the batter is poured in,
small pieces of bacon are put in first, then the
batter. When one side is cooked, the pancake is
flipped over and cooked on the other side. At
that time Dutch cheese is added on top to be
melted. Dutch syrup is poured over everything and
then it's finally time to enjoy! The pancakes
were delicious, and I ate two all by myself!
The entire trip up
to Paris and back to Almeria, Spain, the way we
drove, was 2,595 miles. Paris was just about half
way; only 37 miles longer on our return trip.
Most of the roads we drove on were great and the
speed limits varied a lot. Through smaller towns
and villages, it could go down to as low as 25
miles per hour, but on the toll roads, where
access was limited, the speed limit was 130
kilometers on dry roads and 110 kilometers on wet
roads. That corresponds to about 80 and 68 miles
per hour respectively. Dan, of course had to do a
little better at times, but the most I saw the
speedometer rise to, was 140 kilometers per hour
and that was too fast for me! While Dan and Tom
took turns driving the car during the day, Duke
and I sat in the back seat observing everything,
and one thing I could see clearly was the
speedometer. The gasoline prices varied quite a
bit also, but in Spain they were a lot cheaper
than in France. We paid from $2.69 to $2.76 per
gallon for gasoline in Spain, and in France
between $3.29 and $3.96 per gallon. What was even
more expensive for the car then the gasoline, was
motor oil. We paid a little more than $6.00 for
just one liter! Overall our trip to Paris and
back was a great adventure. We got to see a
little of both countries, experience new tastes
in food, adjust to new customs, and meet nice and
friendly people. A very pleasant adventure that
we wouldn't forget in a hurry!
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