Shortly
after midnight on September 17, 2000, and after
seven days on the Atlantic, we were close enough
to the Portuguese coastline, so we could see the
lights at Cabo de Sao Vicente. We had to go
around that southwestern point of Portugal in
order to head for the Algarve coastline, and in
particular to the port at Lagos! We had crossed
the last 1000 miles from the Azores, endured the
harrowing experience in crossing the shipping
lanes west of Portugal, and finally we could
relax a bit. As we didn't want to arrive in Lagos
during the night, Dan cut the motor and rolled
out the genoa. It was hardly any wind, but that
didn't matter in this stage of the game. I went
below to catch a few winks, and towards morning
Dan needed some sleep, so I took over the watch.
The sails just luffed back and forth, and we were
moving forward at a snails pace, but at the same
time drifting closer to shore. As the horizon
started showing signs of light, I woke Dan, and
soon the genoa was rolled in and the main
lowered. The motor was started, and we were
powering towards the narrow channel, that leads
into Lagos. After hearing so much about Lagos,
the harbor didn't impress us at all. The channel
was very narrow, and when we finally got up to
the arrival dock, it was full of boats. Dan tried
to turn around, but the current was too strong
and it wasn't enough room for us to turn. We
noticed that a local fishingboat was getting
ready to leave, and after he was gone, we tied up
in his spot. The marina wasn't open yet, but it
sure felt good to be tied up to a dock and not be
moving any longer. Little did I know that that
wasn't going to last! As soon as Dan found out
how much it was going to cost for our boat per
night, $40.00, we decided to find anchorage
somewhere else instead. It was easier said then
done to turn around, but after tieing the bow to
the dock and swinging the aft out in the channel,
we managed, and soon we were heading out from
Lagos. We had seen a few anchoring spots on our
charts, and the first one was located in Alvor,
so that's where we were headed. Alvor is a small
town, quite a long way up a river, and this river
we would have to manoeuvre without any channel
markers. As we went into the mouth of the river,
we noticed sandbars all over and people walking
almost out where we were motoring, so we decided
that it wasn't such a good place for us. Instead,
we continued farther east to the bigger river
that enters the Mediterranean at the city of
Portimao, where we could anchor behind a big
breakwater wall. After going up the river for
awhile, in very strong current, we decided to go
back down towards the mouth and anchor where
other boats lay secured. Shortly after Dan had
set our anchor, we got a call on our VHF radio
from the American boat, "Reality". They
had arrived in Lagos the day before us, and now
they wondered where we were? After telling them
our story, they decided to come over for a visit
in their dinghy the next day, if the weather
permitted, seeing we were only about six miles
east of Lagos.
Monday, September 18
arrived with calm winds and lots of sunshine, so
it was a good day for Ed and Diana from
"Reality" to come over for a visit. We
had a great time going up the river to the city
of Portimao and looking around, but before we
knew it, the time had slipped away and it was
getting late in the afternoon. The wind had
picked up considerable from southwest, so it was
quite choppy going back down the river to our
boat. Ed and Diana hurried along in their dinghy
and soon disappeared outside the breakwater wall.
We had hardly reached our boat before Ed and
Diana returned. When they got outside the
breakwater wall, the water was so rough and
splashed into their dinghy, and the wind was
strong, so it sure wouldn't be nice to go back to
Lagos in those conditions. Instead, they ended up
staying overnight in our boat with us, and the
next morning, when the conditions had subsided
somewhat, we towed them back to Lagos with our
boat. The rest of the week we spent in Portimao,
and by Thursday "Reality" had moved
over to our anchorage. We were going to sail to
Gibraltar together. We had been listening and
talking to Southbound II for weather information
in continuing towards Gibraltar, and it looked
good to start out on Friday, September 22. It is
best to head into the Strait of Gibraltar with
westerly winds or at least pretty mild
easterlies. By 1000 on Friday we had pulled up
anchor and were heading out from Portimao and
setting a course for southeast. Of course there
wasn't much wind, so we ended up motoring the
entire day. Because of no wind, we decided
towards evening, to find a safe harbor for the
night, and the anchorage at Olhao, along the
Portuguese coast, looked good, if a bit tricky to
find! We got help over the VHF in finding the
anchorage at Olhao from another sailing vessel,
and soon we had made it through the rough waters
and very strong currents at the mouth of the
river. Once again we were safe and secure for the
night!
By 0800 on Saturday,
September 23 we were on the way again. It was
just as tricky to leave the river, as it was
coming in, but soon we were clear of the traffic
and confused waters around the entrance to the
river. All day and most of the night we were
under power, as the winds were very light and
coming from south/southeast. We took turns
sitting watch during the day and at night, and
many more ships and fishing vessels were all
around us compared to the Atlantic. We were
always within eyesight of "Reality", as
they had to wait for us. As it was getting
daylight on Sunday, September 24, we could see a
hazy coastline that was Spain, and somewhere off
to our starboard was Africa, but it didn't want
to reveal itself! By 1000 we rounded the closest
point between Europe and Africa at Punta de
Tarifa, where it is only 8 miles wide. We were
hugging the Spanish coast, so this time we
weren't so concerned over the big ships, that
seemed to glide by as ghost ships in the haze.
The current helped us going through the narrowest
point, as the current is always stronger going
into the Mediterranean. Officially we hadn't
arrived in the Mediterranean until we were closer
to Gibraltar, and that was still about 15 miles
off. As we were getting closer to Gibraltar, we
started seeing "The Rock" in the haze,
and we took pictures of our boats with "The
Rock" as background. The Gibraltar Bay is
quite large and numerous ships lay anchored there
all the time, and both slow and very fast moving
ferries scurry across to Africa. As we were
crossing The Bay, all of a sudden out of the
haze, we saw the bow of a very big ship rise up
in front of us. It scared both Dan and me to
begin with, and we took evasive action, but then
the ship didn't seem to get any closer. Seemed
the ship lay anchored, but because the haze was
so thick, we couldn't tell if the ship was moving
or not to begin with. We were heading up to the
northern part of Gibraltar by the airport, as we
knew it was marinas there and our friend, Tom on
his boat "XTC", was in one of them. By
1400 we lay anchored off the airport runway, and
as soon as our dinghy was lowered into the water,
we headed ashore to find out about the marinas
and where to check in. The marinas didn't look
very comfortable; not at all like the once back
in the States, as the boats only go in with stern
or bow to. No docks in between the boats, just
fenders, and gangways or planks to get on and
off. We decided that we didn't want to tie up at
the marina, but instead we felt the anchorage was
very good, so that's where we stayed. We checked
in with the Customs officials and got our
passports stamped, and we also found out that it
was not a problem for Duke to go ashore! We
located our friend Tom, and told him we had
arrived and where we were staying. We had finally
reached the entrance to the Mediterranean and
here we ended up staying for another two months.
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