On Saturday
April 28, 2001, we had stocked up on food, filled
the fuel tanks and cast off from our spot along
the quay and headed over to the visitor's area in
Club De Mar, Almeria, where Dan proceded to load
his moped. The moped was laid on its side on the
port bow and tied off, and it didn't seem to be
in the way of our genoa. Our little dinghy also
needed to be hoisted up and securely tied off,
and when that was done, we had no more excuses
for staying. For just about five months Almeria
had been home to us, and I for one had become
very comfortable there. Almeria had offered
everything we needed, plus security from the
unpredictable weather in the Mediterranean, but
for Dan the unknown adventures still to be
experienced beckoned. Therefore, at noon we left
Almeria behind and headed east towards Cabo de
Gata.
As so often happens
when we are sailing, the winds don't cooperate at
all and soon we took easterly winds right on the
nose. When the bow started pounding into the
waves, it became very uncomfortable, so Dan
peeled off more to the north, and closer towards
the shore where the waves were calmer. We knew
that if we rounded the point, we would be in for
a very rough ride, so instead we opted to throw
over our anchor on the west side of Cabo de Gata,
at the designated anchorage, and stay there until
the next morning. Before we left Almeria, Dan had
gone back to Gibraltar to buy "cruising
guides" of the areas of the Mediterranean we
planned to visit, and those books soon became our
guides we relied on. They showed where the best
anchorages were, what the harbors looked like and
numerous other useful information. From our
Spanish guide we knew it was allowed to anchor
west of Cabo de Gata. We didn't get very far that
first day on the water, but at least we were on
the way and at the same time getting used to the
movement of the boat away from the dock.
Sunday morning we
were on the move by 0800 and the water was
totally calm, so we had to use the motor to round
Cabo de Gata. Not until later on in the afternoon
did we get some winds, so we could use the genoa
also. We made our way north along the Spanish
coast, but as it was pretty hazy over the land,
we really didn't see much of the coast. To me it
seems that it's never a crisp, clear day in
Spain, like the gorgeous ones we are spoiled with
in New England, and Dan informed me that it's
because of all the moisture in the air! By
motor-sailing we made it 49 miles farther
northeast in ten hours, and by nightfall we had
anchored inside the breakwater wall in the town
of Aguilas. Before it got dark, I hurried and
took some pictures around the harbor. On top of a
hill in the middle of the town, sat an old
windmill, which seemed out of place, but
picturesque at the same time. Above the
lighthouse, on a crumbling rock, was the ruin of
an old castle. At one time Aguilas was an
important Roman port, which fell into disuse
after repeated invasions by the Berbers, but in
1765 the village and harbor was rebuilt, and the
castle restored. Unfortunately, we only saw the
castle from the harbor, as night soon was upon us
and we were exhausted after a long day on the
water. All we could think of was eating supper
and early to bed!
Monday the winds
seemed to cooperate with us, as they blew quite
strong from the west. Finally one full day of
sailing only, after we had motored out of the
harbor at Agulias of course. The wind gusted up
to 27 knots now and then, but mostly it blew
15-20, and as we had following sea it was not too
bad. The waves weren't too big to begin with, but
after the wind had blown all day, the waves
started getting quite large and we estimated them
to be about 8-10 feet high. We were debating
wether to take into the harbor at Cartagena,
because if we continued, we knew there wouldn't
be any safe harbors until we rounded Cabo de
Palos, which was quite a distance off. Since we
had such great winds, we figured we would
continue, so along the rugged coast we sailed.
Our auto-pilot handled the boat great, until the
wind increased all of a sudden. Dan had just gone
below to check the chart, when I could hear the
wind starting to increase. The wind sounded like
a whine, and immediately I knew we were in
trouble. I screamed for Dan, and he came running
out into the cockpit and grabbed the wheel, as by
now the auto-pilot couldn't keep up. We had put
out the whisker pole earlier to help hold the
genoa out, as the wind came almost dead astern,
and of course now the wind was too strong for Dan
to be able to roll in the sail. Thank goodness
the really strong gust, 50 knots, only lasted a
short while, so eventually we were able to pull
in the genoa and sailed only with the main up.
Even so we were doing about 9 knots and that is
too fast with our boat! Boy, was I ever happy to
finally see the lighthouse at Cabo de Palos, as I
knew that the wind and the waves would be much
calmer once we rounded that point! In eight and a
half hours we had come 45 miles, and now we were
anchored in a big bay north of Cabo de Palos. As
long as the winds came from west to south we were
protected, and as it was we ended up staying
there all day Tuesday because of strong westerly
wind still.
By Wednesday morning
the wind had died down, but now dark threatning
clouds scurried across the sky. It even rained a
few drops, and lightning was visible farther out
in the dark clouds over the water. We decided to
continue, even if we had to motor to begin with,
so by 0900 we were on the way again. We went
north alongside the big inland lake, called Mar
Menor, but all we could see were rows upon rows
of hotels. We passed close by the Isla Grossa,
that had looked like a volcano sticking up out of
the sea from Cabo de Palos, but once we got
close, we could see that was not its shape at
all. It looked more like two humps sticking up
out of the water! Once we passed Isla Grossa, the
wind changed to a more easterly direction, and we
could help move us forward with the genoa also.
Almost four hours from the time we pulled up
anchor in the morning, and 20 miles farther
north, we had anchored again inside the
breakwater walls in the port of Torrevieja. I
wanted to stop in that port, as I had heard there
was supposed to be a Swedish grocery store there,
and I was looking forward to some Swedish food.
That was not to be; we couldn't find the store
nor the Internet, so we finally ended up buying
some groceries in a gas station and paid premium
prices for everything. What did surprise me was
the signs in most of the store windows; they
advertised in Swedish, so obviously there must be
lots of Swedes in that city. Not a city this
Swede would consider living in; the city was too
crowded with people and everything seemed too
congested for my taste! I was happy to get back
out to our boat on anchor!
Time to put the
dinghy up again as we wanted to continue Thursday
morning. By 0900 we were on the way, but since
there was hardly any wind, we used the engine to
move. By noon we passed the island of Tabarca,
southeast of Alicante, and from then on we could
pull the genoa out also and motor-sail. Our next
lay-over was planned for Villajoyosa, but
unfortunately the anchorage was along the beach
outside the breakwater walls, and since the winds
picked up, we were in for a bouncy night. The
city looked very nice, and finally we saw houses
painted in pastel colors; a nice change from the
standard white with orange roofs! Behind the
city, a tall flat topped mountain rose up, and it
seemed to have its own weather. Sometimes clouds
enveloped it, and sometimes it looked very dark
and forboding down upon the city. When we were
anchored along the beach, we started to see dark
clouds moving in from the sea. Flashes of
lightning also streaked between the clouds and
the water, and farther south of us they were
getting rained on. All we could do was sit and
watch the clouds getting closer and closer to us,
and when the storm seemed to finally reach land
south of us, churchbells started ringing. That
was a bit eerie! The same happened when the storm
looked like it had passed, so we wondered if that
was normal when a storm hit? Luckily, the storm
seemed to be all around us, but no lightning hit
our mast, as ours was the only one along the
beach! Once the storm passed, the winds changed
to a more north-northwest direction, and for us
it meant a calmer sea, so it wasn't too
uncomfortable to sleep.
When I don't feel
safe and secure on anchor, I don't sleep very
sound, and usually I wake up several times during
the night checking to make sure we haven't
dragged our anchor. That's what I did during the
night to Friday, and I was actually glad when it
was time to get up and continue. The sky was
still dark, and rain fell now and then, and the
wind still came from north and northwest, so we
could motor-sail some. When the wind started
gusting up to 20 knots, we decided to pull into
the harbor at Calpe, where we could anchor
between the outside and the inside breakwater
wall, and be somewhat protected, at least from
winds from north all the way around to south. To
the east of the anchorage rose the mountain
Ifach, which looked very impressive both far away
and close up. While Dan and I were discussing
when and to where we were going to continue, our
phone rang. It was our friend Tom from the boat
XTC. He and his lady friend Val, had reached the
first island in the Baleares, and they were
wondering when we would catch up to them? Maybe
by Saturday evening, we said! As it turned out,
we were on the way sooner than expected! The wind
changed direction in the afternoon, and blew
straight into our anchorage, so Dan wanted to
move to the other side of Mount Ifach. When we
had pulled up our anchor and started out from
Calpe, I told Dan, that I was finally prepared
for the crossing over to the Baleares, so that's
what we did, and it proved to be a faster
crossing than we had figured.
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