Our
crossing from mainland Spain to the first island
in the Baleares went much faster than we had
planned. After we had pulled up anchor in the
harbor at Calpe and set sail for Ibiza, we had to
motor to get out from the influence of Mount
Ifach. Once out a few miles the winds blew quite
strong from southeast and soon we were under sail
only. During the afternoon we played cat and
mouse with some big ships, and of course it was
our little boat that gave way. Most of the time
we were sailing along over six knots, so by 0300
on the morning of May 5, 2001 we arrived about 20
miles outside the islands of Ibiza and
Espalmador. We had come 62 miles in less than
twelve hours! Since we didn't want to arrive in
the dark, we pulled in the sail and just drifted
in the sea until daylight arrived. It was getting
a bit uncomfortable drifting at the mercy of the
wind and the waves, and both Dan and I didn't
feel great at all. We both were dead tired and
that's when I, at least, felt queasy. I believe
we both nodded off a few minutes now and then,
without even realizing it. About 0500 we started
the engine and headed towards the islands. We
still had about 20 miles to go, and it would be
daylight by the time we arrived.
We were heading for
the northwest corner of Isla Espalmador and
Torretas, where we knew our friends on XTC were
anchored. They had found a very shallow lagoon,
where only catamarans and small powerboats could
enter. Our first try through the opening was not
a success! We ended up getting stuck on a
sandbar. With the engine in reverse and the waves
helping, we slowly rocked off the sandbar and
backed out into deeper water. On our second try
we made it through, and finally we were inside
the lagoon in calm and the clearest water I had
seen. It looked like we should be hitting bottom,
but somehow it was enough water under our keels.
Once we were anchored and secured, both Dan and I
needed some sleep, so we were off to bed for a
couple of hours. When we woke up again, it was
shower time for us, clothes needed to be put in
water to soak, the boat needed picking up, and
soon a fresh pot of coffee was prepared. Tom and
his lady friend Val came over for a cup of
coffee, and we got invitation for dinner onboard
their boat for the evening.
For five relaxing
days we enjoyed the solitude of our lagoon, and
of course we went ashore to explore the little
island of Torretas and the bigger island of
Espalmador. There were no houses on Torretas, and
only one on Espalmador. Now and then smaller
craft had ventured into our lagoon, but only for
day visits. While we were still in our lagoon, we
noticed strange orange colored clouds to the
south one evening. When the rain started falling,
our boats got covered with red sand that fell
with the rain; it was sand from Africa that had
gotten blown up into the clouds and finally
dumped on the Baleares. I guess it's not an
unusual occurrence, but to us it was strange to
say the least. Our boats were covered in red
sand, and it was not easy to wash off either.
By Thursday, May 10
it was time to leave our safe and secure lagoon
behind and head across to the island of Ibiza. We
decided to spend the money for a spot in the
marina at Botafoch, where we paid about $25.00
per night, without water and electricity. We
stayed in the marina two nights, and during that
time we took a small ferry across the bay into
the heart of the city of Ibiza. First we were
looking for an Internet store, but since our
departure from Almeria, those stores were getting
harder and harder to find. When we did find one,
the price to use a computer had at least doubled
if not tripled. On the left side of the entrance
to Ibiza, high up on the rock, sits a fortified
cathedral with a wall around it. We walked around
and looked at the beautiful view from high above
the city the last day we were there, but other
than that we didn't take time to see more of
Ibiza.
On Saturday, May 12
we were ready to continue, but first we had to
fuel up. Once that was completed, we powered out
from the port of Ibiza, and our next stop would
be a cove on the north side of the island. There
we anchored over night and got ready for the
bigger crossing to Mallorca the following
morning. The alarm rang at 0600 on Sunday and as
soon as we were ready we pulled up anchor and
headed east. Once we were out in the open sea, we
had 10-20 knots of southerly winds, so for quite
some time we flew our jennicker. When the winds
changed to southeast, that sail had to come down
and the genoa now pulled us forward. By 1600 that
afternoon we had reached Mallorca and lay on
anchor in a bay on the southwestern corner of
Palma Bay. We had come another 45 miles farther
east! The bay, Cala Portals, where we threw over
the anchor, was very crowded to begin with, but
even so we managed to squeeze in. By nightfall
most of the boats had pulled up their anchors and
left; our cruising guide had said this Cala to be
very popular with the local people, and one beach
was supposedly "nude". We did see some
people ashore, who enjoyed the sun in their
birthday suits!
We had called ahead
to Palma and secured two spots in a marina for
Monday night, so during the day we headed about
eight miles farther up Palma Bay and arrived at
the very busy port at Palma! Even two United
States navy ships were tied up to one dock, but
the rest of the docks and marinas catered to
commercial freighters, cruis ships and private
yachts of all sizes and shapes. We marvelled at
some of these yachts; how could anybody have
enough money to own one, let alone be able to pay
a crew to run and maintain it! Way out of our
league! We were shocked at the price for one
night bow-to at Pier 46 for our boat - $41.00,
but of course that included water and
electricity! Why we ended up staying for four
nights I don't know, as we didn't like the city
at all. It was too big and busy! What was real
nice, was a train ride across the mountains up to
the northern town of Soller, but once in the city
it didn't offer much. A short open tram ride down
to its port was nice, and there we saw some
sailboats laying on anchor. We wished we had gone
there instead of to Palma!
Back to Cala Portals
on Friday, May 18, where we lay anchored and
waited for suitable winds, so we could continue
around Mallorca's southerly tip and up along side
its southeastern shores. Not until Monday did we
hear some favorable winds for our journey, so
then we decided to pull up anchor and head out.
Once away from our anchorage, the winds came from
northeast for a while, before they totally died
down. We motored, but our friends on XTC tried to
continue sailing and got farther and farther
behind. Of course as soon as the wind increased
and came from the west, XTC pretty soon caught up
and passed us. When we rounded Punta de las
Salinas, the southern most tip of Mallorca, the
winds came straight on the nose. Once again the
motor was turned on and we powered all the way up
to our next port, which was at Puerto Petro.
There we were able to find anchorage in a nice
protected cove, and once we had found a sandy
spot on the bottom, to set our anchor in, we were
dug in. We had to try a couple of times before
our anchor dug in, because when it fell on the
grassy areas, it would hold but not very good.
XTC arrived after us, but they were also able to
find a suitable anchorage spot.
Puerto Petro was
just a port and tourist town, a few stores with
food was available, but for anything more we had
to take a taxi up to the next town, which was
Cala D'Or. There we even found the Internet Cafe.
Wednesday, May 23 we just took it easy and tried
to get some updated weather reports and on
Thursday we decided that it was ok for us to
continue again. The winds were ok to begin with,
but as so many times before, that didn't last. As
soon as the winds started coming right on the
nose, we pulled in the sails and motored forward.
Our plans were to sail to a bay on the northern
shores of Mallorca, where we could easily get
across to Menorca, but when the winds changed its
direction, so did we. Instead, we looked in our
cruising guide and chose Cala de Canamel as our
destination. It was an open bay, but somewhat
protected from the winds, except from northeast!
It had the clearest water and at a depth of 30
feet, we could see the bottom! Once we were
anchored, the water was so beautiful and beckoned
me to come in for a swim. I changed into my
bathing suit and slowly went down the swimladder;
the water wasn't that warm, but very refreshing!
We found out that a
grocery store was available on shore, behind the
row of hotels, so in the afternoon on Friday, May
25, Dan, Duke and I rowed ashore. We rowed over
to a cave along the shore to have a look first,
and as it was a pretty narrow opening into the
cave, we just made it. Inside it was gloomy and
the strangest hooting noices came from the edge
of rock and waterline. The water made that noice
as it tried to find its way under the rock! Not a
place I wanted to linger in, so soon we were on
the way over to the pier and tied our boat up.
Once some groceries were bought, we returned to
our boat and prepared to continue our journey
towards Menorca the next morning.
By 0800 on Saturday
we were on the way, and to begin with we had no
wind at all. That is not unusual close to shore
and early in the morning! A couple of miles out
from the island, we encountered northeasterly and
light wind, so we could fly our jennicker for
awhile. If the wind wouldn't increase by noon, we
had talked about changing course more for the
middle of Menorca, rather than the southeastern
corner, we now were heading for. By noon the wind
had picked up some, and by the middle of the
afternoon we had too strong wind instead. It now
came from more east-northeast and gusted up to 38
knots, so it was getting a bit lumpy. The biggest
problem we encountered was the dinghy. Dan had
opted to tow it, as we were just going across to
Menorca, and what could happen in that short a
distance? Well, the wind increased and so did the
waves, and the dinghy started filling up with
water that splashed over its edges! Nothing we
could do but continue and hope it wouldn't swamp
totally, as there wasn't the slightest chance for
Dan to hoist it up by then! As the winds were
coming on the nose, Dan started the engine to
help us point more towards shore, as we had given
up the plan of continuing up the eastern side to
the city and port at Mahon. Instead, I looked in
our cruising guide and picked out some options
for safe anchorages along the southern coast. By
1630 we had come 36 miles farther east and were
safely anchored inside some rock islands in a bay
called "Cala de Binibeca". The winds
continued to howl in the rigging, but the water
was very calm in the bay, and we felt very safe
and secure.
Early the next
morning, before the wind had a chance to start
blowing from any direction, we motored our way
around the southeastern point of Menorca and made
our way up and into the big port at Mahon. The
city and main port lie quite a distance inland,
but since it's a natural and very deep port, big
ships can maneuvre all the way to the end. We
went all the way up to the end, before we decided
to tie up to a floating pontoon, along the
eastern side of the bay and straight across from
the city. The charge to be tied to the pontoon
was for our boat, about $11.50, and that included
water and electricity. Of course we had to use
our own dinghy to get ashore, which wasn't a big
deal. We stayed on the pontoon for three nights,
before we moved to a mooring close by for an
additional three nights. The charge of $6.70 per
night for the mooring was worth it I thought,
otherwise we would have had to anchor in a cove
almost at the mouth of the bay.
Dan was able to get
his moped ashore on Menorca, and he did quite a
bit of sightseeing with it on the island. A
couple of days I went with him, but I just didn't
want to ride the whole time, so instead I made
Dan stop at historical ruin sites to have a look.
There are quite a few ruines on the island, where
people lived thousands of years ago, and we
couldn't help but be impressed by the ingenuity
of placements of huge stones for roofs over their
dvellings. We entered a few caves, natural and
manmade, where people lived, and we could still
see the black soot on stones, where their fire
had been. I even crawled through a small opening
in a burial stone building, to see what it looked
like on the inside. There was two floors inside
the building, otherwise just open space where the
dead were placed. The archaeologists had removed
more than 50 skeletons from this particular
burial site!
In the city of
Cituadella, on the western side of the island, we
found a Burger King, where we decided to have
lunch one day while sightseeing. Has a whopper
ever tasted that good or the french fries? Both
Dan and I thoroughly enjoyed our whopper meal!
Most of the time we eat onboard and meat is not
on the menu often. The beef here doesn't taste
very good, but the pork and chicken is quite all
right, if a bit pricey! Anyway, everything we
needed we found in the city of Mahon! Almost
every morning a big cruise ship arrived and
unloaded its passangers, but one hardly noticed
the tourist in the city, and by night fall they
were gone. I liked Mahon much better than Palma,
as Mahon seemed to be a living and working city
and not just a big tourist trap! Even as much as
I liked Mahon, of course we now had to start
thinking about continuing our trip. We wanted to
be in Corsica by the middle of June, and on June
2 we were still on Menorca. We had been listening
to every possible weather station we could hear,
but none seemed to be very accurate for the
weather we experienced on the island. An Irish
boat, that had just returned from a
round-the-world cruise, listened to and printed
out NavTex weather reports for us, and our
friends from the Dutch boat Mrs. Jones on Corsica
did the same. Finally, we decided that on Sunday
June 3 the weather sounded good for the overnight
crossing, so we prepared to head across about 200
miles of tricky water in order to reach the most
northern tip of Sardinia!
|