We arrived
in Almeria, Spain on December first, after an
overnight sail from Gibraltar. We had finally
decided to spend the winter in Almeria, partly
because our friend Tom, from the boat
"XTC" was there, and partly because we
had heard that it was a very nice place to spend
some time in, and the marina charges were
reasonable.
We had set out from
Gibraltar on November 30 and motored all the way
up to Punta Entinas, on the southern coast of
Spain. By the time we reached that point it was
early morning, and all of a sudden the wind
started blowing. In no time at all the windometer
showed over 25 knots from west. Immediately the
waves increased also, but since they came from
behind, it was not too bad. Dan rolled out our
genoa and we motor sailed along quite fast, and
by noon we were only 18 miles out from the port
in Almeria. A big red sun had risen over the
horizon in the east earlier, and that is when we
could see high, snow covered mountain peaks
inland. We thought it was snow, but were not
sure, as it could have been the sun shining on
the bare mountain walls! After 137 miles we had
reached our waypoint and changed course towards
Almeria. The coordinates our friend Tom had given
us, took us over to a fishing port west of the
main port. Just as we were about to enter that
harbor, in high winds and rolling seas, the
engine warning buzzer started screaming!
Something was plugging up the salt water intake!
Dan rushed down to our utility room and
backflushed the strainer, all while I kept a look
out. We got the engine started again and made our
way into the fishing port looking for Tom's boat!
The harbor was quite large, but only varying
sizes of fishingboats lay tied up along the
piers, and not one sailboat did we see. Even in
that harbor it was quite windy, so I was glad
when we decided that Tom's boat was not there,
turned around and headed out into the
Mediterranean again. It was not far to the main
port in Almeria, and once we entered and was in
the lee of the breakwater wall, it got calmer and
much more comfortable. We went all the way up
into the port and turned around, and the only
marina we saw was at the beginning of the port.
We went back to the marina to have a look, and
that's when we saw Tom's boat; we were at the
right place! Dan turned our boat around and
headed outside the smaller breakwater wall to the
fueldock, where we figured we would tie up
temporarily, until we found out where we could
tie up long term. By then Tom and his friend
Vern, who was visiting from Florida, came out to
the dock to help tie us up. We had just thrown
one line from the stern to Vern, when Dan noticed
black smoke billowing out around the engine
compartment door! He immediately shut the engine
off, so thank goodness we at least had one line
tied off to the dock. Once Dan shut the engine
off, the smoke stopped and cleared out. He opened
the engine door to see what had caused the smoke?
Seemed the lug on the alternator cable broke off,
and in so doing it hit the steel oilfilter on the
engine, arced a hole in the oilfilter and some
oil spilled out. We could not turn the engine on
until a new oilfilter was installed, and of
course we didn't have a spare. The marina people
were not happy about us being tied up to the
fueldock, but what could we do! Later on we
walked to a marine store, but they did not have a
Janmar filter; we would have to order it! Once we
were back in the marina again, and were walking
out to our boat, we saw a service truck turning
around and coming towards us. On the truck's side
was written "Janmar Repair Service"! We
stopped the truck and asked the man, if he had
oil filters for our particular engine with him?
He did not, but he thought he had some at his
shop. He would bring two the following morning at
0900!
A good night sleep
secured to a dock felt good, and before 0900 the
next morning we were awake, and Dan was waiting
for the Janmar repair man. He came with two
filters! After Dan hade paid him, Dan installed
the filter, turned over the engine and checked
the oil level. Dan could not believe the oil
level hadn't changed hardly at all, so luckily we
hadn't lost much thanks to Dan's quick reaction.
The engine seemed to work properly, and it could
move our boat again, so it was time to go into
the marina office and pay for a spot along the
pier. I filled out the papers, and when I came to
where they wanted to know what kind of boat we
had, I made the unfortunate mistake of writing
catamaran! Immediately the price increased with
50%, as we had to pay for a 45 foot long boat!
Even so the price wasn't that bad; 1,350 pesetas
per day, which is about $7.30, and it was the
same price wether we stayed one day or 30 days!
Our friend Tom had written "sailboat"
for his 37 foot catamaran, so he was paying much
less than we did, about 900 pesetas, $4.86 per
day. From now on we also have a
"sailboat"! The marinas in the
Mediterranean are not like the ones back home in
the US. Here they have docks also, but the boats
are tied up stern or bow to with only fenders
between the boats. This would be our first try
tying up the Mediterranean way, and with the help
of Tom and Vern we managed quite easily. Dan
backed our boat up to the pier, lines from the
stern cleats were tied to the bollards on the
pier, and a line, which is secured to a heavy
chain under water, was tied to our front bollard.
When all the lines were tightened, our boat could
only move so far forward, backwards and sideways!
Dan rigged up our swimladder with a small plank
on it to begin with, and that was used as a
gangway to get on and off. Later on he bought a
longer and wider board, that he fastened on the
dockside end of the board with a bungie cord to a
line from the davit, so the board hung in the
air, and the other end rested on top of the boat.
That made it quite easy getting on and off! It
felt good to be able to get off and on the boat
when you wanted to, instead of having to get into
a dinghy and go ashore that way!
The electricity was
included in the daily marina charge, but to begin
with we couldn't utilize it. After Dan bought a
transformer, that converted 220 volt to 110, we
were plugged into the shore power, which ran our
battery charger, and which in turn kept our
batteries up. That worked great for a long time,
but then one day the battery charger just quit!
Dan brought it to the marine store, and they in
turn sent it out to be checked out by the local
factory authorized repair facility. At the repair
facility they cooked it thoroughly, as they
tested it with 220 volt! Too bad for us, because
they were not going to do anything about it, nor
give us some money off on a new battery charger!
We had to do something, but a new battery charger
like the one we had was out of the question, as
they wanted over $600.00 for it. Eventually Dan
bought two smaller car battery chargers for a lot
less money. They have been charging our batteries
for quite some time now, and seem to work ok.
With the solar panels and wind generators
helping, the batteries are kept up most of the
time! We also bought an electric heater, that Dan
tied straight into the 220 volt system, and that
heater has been keeping our boat warm and dry all
winter. We still make our own fresh water every
third day, and as long as the salt water in the
marina is somewhat clean, we can continue to do
so. When we left the boat for eleven days to go
to Paris, Dan had to clean out the watermaker and
leave the pickling agent in it until we returned,
otherwise algae would have started to grow on the
membrane and ruined the watermaker!
The weather here in
Almeria has been very nice for the most since we
arrived, but then it is not called "The Sun
Coast" for nothing! The sun has been shining
almost every day, and now in February, it is
starting to get quite warm. At least around 68
degrees Fahrenheit in the shade almost every day,
and much hotter in the sun! Of course it wasn't
that warm in December and January, but even then
it wasn't that cold; never below freezing! Now we
can wear shorts and sandals during the day, but
it gets a bit chilly at night so long pants and a
light sweater feels good. The biggest drawback
with the weather here is the wind. From being
totally calm in the morning, it can start blowing
quite strong all of a sudden by the afternoon.
Westerly winds have been dominating so far, but
that is expected to change. We have seen our
windometer reach 60 knots a few times while in
the marina, and those times I have been so
thankful we have been safe and secured tied up to
the pier. The unpredictability of the weather
here in the Mediterranean, is the biggest reason
why we opted to spend the winter in one spot,
rather than being out there and braving the
elements.
Since we have been
in "Club de Mar", which is the name of
this marina and yacht club, we have met a few
other sailors like us and made new friends. This
marina doesn't have that many transient boats, as
most of the boats here are local power and sail
boats. Tom's boat, "XTC" is right next
to ours; a littel farther in along the pier is
"Mrs. Jones" a Dutch boat, with a young
couple onboard, Rene and Wendy. "Pendragon
VII" is the name of a French boat, but with
US registration and the captain and owner is
Patrick; we recently met him. We have been
spending most of our time with Tom, Rene and
Wendy, and the time has past very quickly. In the
beginning of March, Rene and Wendy will continue
their travels towards Barcelona, The Baleares,
Corsica and Sardinia, before they have to return
to Holland and work by the end of August. Tom
will also continue farther into the
Mediterranean, but only after his lady friend
arrives from Florida. Patrick will be on his way
to the Caribbean eventually, where he will
charter his boat. Stress Relief will stay here in
Almeria until the end of April, but then she wil
also continue farther into the Mediterranean for
the summer and next winter.
While we have been
here in Almeria,
we have done some sightseeing locally and gotten
to know the city a bit better. It is a lot of
history here and some old buildings we have
visited. The grand "Alcazaba",
where it sits high above the city, is a
historical fortress from way back in the 900th
century, and a great overview of the city can be
had from there. Wendy and I have gone for long
walks almost every day, sometimes with my camera
along, so my Almeria album is starting to get
full. Tom, Dan, Duke and I drove farther along
the shore out to "Cabo
de Gata"
one day and saw some beautiful views of the
Spanish coastline; that's where we will be
heading when we leave Almeria. One day in late
January, we also crammed the five of us into
Tom's car and drove up to the Sierra Nevada
mountains by Granada and went skiing for the day.
That was something we had never dreamt of doing
in Spain, but the day was a great success and we
had lots of fun. Over to Aguadulce we have been a
few times to get information from other boats, as
there are an awful lot of transient boats in that
harbor. That city is basically a tourist city and
not at all as nice as Almeria. The people in the
boats have been very helpful with information
regarding where and how to get butane for our
propane tanks, since propane is not available in
Spain either! Dan and Tom basically rigged some
kind of transfer system together, then they hung
the butane bottle upside down and let the gas
sink into our propane bottles. No special nozzles
or changes were needed to be able to use the
butane in our stove or hot water heater, and it
seems to be as good as propane as far as btu's
are concerned.
As always, the days
soon settled into somewhat of a routine, since we
have stayed in one place for so long. It seems we
sleep late in the morning and stay up late at
night! During the day we do grocery shopping in
different stores, depending on what we need.
There is also a Farmer's Market in Almeria, where
we buy fresh vegetable, fruit, fish, meat and the
most gorgeous and colorful flowers I have ever
seen. We have already enjoyed fresh strawberries
this month, and the oranges and lemons are ripe
by now. At night we watch one of our 59
dvd-movies, alone or with our friends. Other
evenings we play cards with Tom, Rene and Wendy,
and sometimes we even had drinking games. Seems
quite a few cans of beer have ended up in our
garbage, but since a case of beer is only $3.25,
it's hard buying anything else. Dan has been busy
trying to get his Spanish ID number and a
residence address card, so he can register his
Honda scooter, he has ordered. Trying to find out
about what particular papers he needed, and where
to go for the ID numbers was a job in itself, but
persistens paid off and eventually both he and
Tom got their ID numbers. Dan is now anxiously
waiting for the scooter to arrive! A few repairs
to the boat and the dinghy has been done also.
The dinghy had leaks in its compartments, so Dan
had to lay down more fiberglass to repair them,
and it seemed to work. The dingy was put back in
the water a couple of weeks ago, and since then
Dan and Duke, or Tom or Rene has taken it for a
sail around the port. Dan also bought new lines,
hot pink with blue in them, for the genoa and
boom. The genoa lines he installed without any
trouble, but the boom line needed a spliced in
loop in one end and that was easier said then
done. I have been working on our webpages and
pictures a lot, and slowly I am starting to catch
up. I was hoping to be all caught up by the time
I leave for five weeks at home in Rhode Island
with our son and daughter-in-law. I want to be
there for our first grandchild's arrival and also
to do our income taxes!
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