One Friday
afternoon in the beginning of February Dan, Duke
and I got together with Tom, Rene, Wendy and
Patrick and walked up to admire the Alcazaba. We
had been wanting to do that for quite some time,
and finally it would happen. It is such a
majestic fortress overlooking the city! At night
spotlights light up the outside walls and it's so
beautiful. This Friday not many tourists made
their way up the steps to the main entrance,
where we would have to pay for the privilege of
admiring the Alcazaba. Dogs were not allowed, so
Dan opted to wait outside with Duke, and since
Tom had seen it before, he also stayed with Dan
and Duke. It would be only Rene, Wendy, Patrick
and I that would go farther inside the Alcazaba,
and since we all had European passports, we
didn't have to pay anything. It was only 250
pesetas per person, about $1.35, so it wouldn't
have ruined our budgets to have to pay!
The Alcazaba,
fortress, was constructed in the year 955, when
Adb al-Rahman, the first caliph of Al-Andalus,
granted the status of madina to the nucleus of
Almeria. Along with the Alcazaba, a Great Mosque
and the fortification of the urban area, between
the Alcazaba and the seashore was also
constructed. The Alcazaba, raised on the ruins of
an earlier fortress, is situated on an isolated
slope that dominates the bay. Under the fortress
protection Almeria became the most important
maritime outlet of Al-Andalus, being both the
headquarters of the Omeya fleet and of its
admiral. Great warships were built in Almeria's
shipyards. Surviving Moslem texts recognize
Almeria as the best market in Moorish Spain. Not
only did Moslem merchants from Egypt and Syria
come to its port, but also Christian merchants
from France and Italy. Merchants and travellers
thronged its streets and the revenue collected
there surpassed by a long way those of any other
seaport.
The exterior gate we
walked through first, before we arrived at the
booth where we should have paid. From there the
walkway zigzagged up a ramp, which led through
the "Gate of Justice", and soon we were
inside the first sector. Alcazaba is divided up
into three sectors; the first two are of Moorish
design and the third being of Christian origin.
At present the first sector was filled with
gardens and fountains, but that was not the case
from the beginning, as its original function was
much different. Recent research has made it
perfectly clear that this first sector was
completely urbanised, with numerous houses,
baths, outbuildings etc.; a residential area with
the problems of water supply solved by means of
the water wheel and an "aljibe", an
underground chamber for collecting and storing
water. At the extreme eastern end of Alcazaba
stands the "Bulwark of The Salient",
from where the primitive city wall, which closed
off the city in the 10th century, commenced in
the direction of the sea. Opposite the
"Bulwark of The Salient" we walked
along the esplanade of the "Wall of the
Watch Tower", and looked down and out along
the "Wall of the Ravine". It's an
impressive stretch of curtain wall which is
crossing the ravine of "The Ditch",
before ascending to the "Hill of Saint
Christopher". This fortification was part of
the enlargement of the city's defences ordered by
the Taifa King Jayran, between the years 1014 and
1028.
The second and
middle sector formed a small palace City, with
all the most important buildings; houses, mosque,
baths, and aljibers. Although this sector has
been destroyed for the most part, it represents
an area of great interest in terms of history,
archaeology, architecture and town planning.
After taking the
city in 1489, the Catholic Monarchs ordered the
construction of a castle in the highest most
westerly part of the Alcazaba. When this was
carried out, the greater part of the palace area
was destroyed. The castle was built of strong
ashlar stone walls. The circular shape of its
towers and the structure of the site itself, was
dictated by new military requirements after the
use of artillery was introcuced. Access to this
third sector, protected by three semi-circular
towers and a moat, is by means of a drawbridge.
The interior is organized around the "Parade
Grounds", and along the northern side the
"Tower of Homage" and the "Tower
of the Waterwheel" are located. The
"Tower of Gunpowder" dominates the
extreme western end of the Alcazaba, and from
this point the inhabitant had an excellent view
looking out over the harbor and the city below.
Of course we had an
excellent view of the city and the harbor below
also, where we stopped at some lookout towers to
admire the view. In the second sector we went
into an aljibe, where some old artifacts were
displayed. In one area there was a small mat with
slippers and a drawing of stars on a big piece of
cardboard, all behind a glass wall. One Arab man,
who happened to be there with us, explained that
it was a prayer mat and slippers for the man who
prayed. The moslems wash their hands, arms up to
the elbows, their heads and their feet before
they can pray. In this wall there had been
cutouts, but they were now closed up, but the
Moslems a long time ago had turned towards the
cutouts, where the sun streamed in and prayed. I
guess, they would be headed in the right
direction towards Mecca? Outside, along the main
wall we saw big round stones, and we couldn't
figure out what their purpose were? They were
much too big to have been used for the cannons!
Some beautiful blooming cactus also grew in the
sandy and very dry soil inside the fortress. The
Alcazaba was almost magical, and I could almost
imagine how the people had lived there hundreds
of years earlier, even though only a shell was
left from those times. Back down and through the
"Gate of Justice" we walked, and soon
we arrived where Dan, Tom and Duke hade stayed to
admire their view. After filling them in on what
we had seen and where we had walked, we all
headed through the "External Gate" and
left the Alcazaba behind.
|